Argentina, Andean Hangovers and Alfajores

So after an arduous, cross continental, long winded and very expensive journey.. my Visa card finally arrived. It was time to leave BA, mouth smeared with dulce du leche, and head to Mendoza, the wine capital of Argentina. But that wasn't before I´d experienced 8 hours sat on a stone cold floor in BA´s Retiro bus station. There was a national bus strike, which meant the world and his llama was delayed in getting anywhere. And isn´t it amazing how interesting things become when you´re stuck in the most boring place possible? I forced myself to sit in one place for at least an hour at a time, so I could really look forward to going to browse the newsagents on the station concourse.. or maybe even sit in a skanky cafe! Or my favourite, sit on the bench outside. I did read pretty much the whole of The Slap though (great book, thoroughly recommend). 

Anyway, as I boarded the bus at 1am, I´ve never been more glad of the fact that I shelled out for a first class seat - fully reclining leather bed, personal movie screen and a ridiculous 17 course dinner with wine. Amaze.

Mendoza was lovely, all laid back dinners, sunny skies, amazing steak and very chilled out. Maybe signing up for the high Andean mountain tour with the world´s worst hangover wasn´t the best idea though. Horrible altitude, a winding bus journey and the remnants of Senor Dog left at the hostel along with my dignity were not ideal. The spectacular views of Aconcangua and my first taste of the Andes soon blew the cobwebs away though.

I squeezed in a wine tour around some bodegas, but have to say it was kind of boring, felt like I was on a Sandals holiday with all the European pensioners.

In the interests of easier border crossings, I decided to leave Argentina and head into Chile. I hadn´t even really thought of going here, but I trotted through the mountains to Valparaiso, which at first sight from the bus station seemed like a more depressing version of Finsbury Park. But as we ascended up into the hills, it started to make a bit more sense. 

The port town was once one of the most important in South America, and once you get up the Cerros, it´s pretty awesome. I only know this though because I took the amazing Tours4tips - guided by Where´s Wally, you have to do this if you´re in town. We took the funicular, rode the old trams, saw really cool street art, bought alfajores from some old guy´s house and finished up with a pisco sour. Best tour ever, and you only pay what you think it was worth. Dig deep!

It was also here in Valparaiso that I thank the Lord I was introduced to La Chorillana, continuing the theme of me basically eating my way around the globe. It´s a local student dish, heart attack on a plate, cheap and cheerful but so freaking delicious. Fresh hunks of meat served up on home cooked fries, drizzled with fried onions and general deliciousness. There are no words.

I also popped into Pablo Neruda´s house, desperate to sit on his "Cloud" chair (there was a velvet rope). All in all, Valpo is a pretty unique place and a great stop for a couple of days.

Deciding I wasn´t quite ready for another 24 hour bus journey, I decided to break up my trip to the Atacama Desert with a stop in La Serena.

La Serena is a hole. That´s all I have to say on that matter. Onwards to the Desert!